Valparaíso

Known as la joya del Pacífico (jewel of the Pacific) among the sailors who frequented its coast, Valparaíso was, in the late 19th century, one of the most important ports in the world, owing to its location on the route for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through the Strait of Magellan at the far southern tip of the continent.

The city attracted immigrants from across Europe and enjoyed a veritable golden age, with its characteristic brightly-colored houses springing up along the more than forty hills overlooking the port. It was home to the first stock exchange in Latin America and the first volunteer fire department on the continent, as well as the world’s oldest Spanish-language newspaper in continuous publication, El Mercurio de Valparaíso.

Its fortunes changed significantly with the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, which rendered the southern tip of South America obsolete as a means of passing between the two great oceans. Port traffic was significantly reduced, and wealthy families left the city in droves for the capital Santiago or neighboring Viña del Mar. Its decline did not begin to reverse until the 1990s, when a community-led preservation movement rescued much of its unique cultural heritage that had fallen victim to urban decay. Today, Valparaíso retains its 19th-century charm, albeit with a slightly gritty, bohemian air. While most Chileans prefer the rather more mundane Viña del Mar, a visit to its neighbor will prove much more stimulating; eclectic, colorful architecture, open-air street art museums, and sweeping views of the bay below await you as you wind your way through the hillsides above.

The two best-preserved hills are the neighboring Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción, each a maze of streets lined with quaint old houses, boutique shops, and cafes. The cultural heritage of the immigrants who built these neighborhoods is reflected in the architecture today, as these two hills were home to large numbers of British and Germans who came seeking opportunities in the shipping industry. Each deserves a lengthy stroll, taking time to admire the unique mix of architectural styles as well as the beautiful wide views of the Pacific Ocean along the coast; an especially beautiful mirador can be found along Paseo Yugoslavo.

Reaching these hills can be somewhat of an adventure as well, as you can choose between a not too strenuous walk or a ride on one of several turn of the century ascensores. Though they are known as elevators in the local parlance, in reality they are extremely steep funiculars; take your pick between Ascensor Concepción (1883), Ascensor El Peral (1902), or Ascensor Reina Victoria (1903).

The city’s main attraction not located on these hills is La Sebastiana, one of Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda’s three homes in Chile, which can be found just to the east on Cerro Florida. This quirky house, originally built by the Spanish architect Sebastián Collado but sold to Neruda after his death, was the poet’s escape from the “fatigue” of Santiago, a place where he could “live and write in peace.”

The house certainly fits the unique character of its celebrated occupant: its red-and-blue exterior is defined by smooth, round curves, while its interior is filled with objects collected by Neruda on his travels.

The inside of the house has a distinctly nautical air, with its wood floors and paneling and the large windows offering every room a breathtaking view across the hills and over the bay.

As for food, I recommend trying one of Valparaíso’s most famous delicacies, chorrillana. This massive dish consists of a plate of French fries topped with sliced steak and sausage, fried (or scrambled eggs), and onion. You will find one of the best at Moneda de Oro on the Plaza Cívica, where you can easily share one order among three or more.