The Sacred Valley

Flowing northwest out of Cusco, the Río Urubamba cuts a deep valley through the Andes. This fertile valley was one of the first areas to be absorbed by the budding Inca Empire in the 2nd century AD, and today it is home to many impressive archaeological sites, which give it its name of the Valle Sagrado de los Incas. Since the valley is lower in elevation and thus warmer than the surrounding mountainous area, it was a highly important center of agriculture for the Incas, especially for growing maize (corn), which was an essential food source for the growing civilization as well as the main ingredient in chicha, a fermented drink consumed during feasts and religious festivals. Situated between Cusco and Machu Picchu, the archaeological sites and natural beauty of the Sacred Valley make it well worth a visit on your way from the city to the world-famous sanctuary.

Chinchero

Your first stop heading out of Cusco will be the town of Chinchero, home to a large archaeological complex that was used by the Incas for centuries for agriculture, with its potato cultivation of particular renown. Like at other Inca sites, the land at Chinchero consists of large, flat terraces cut into the steep hillside and reinforced with large stones. This sophisticated method of terrace farming allowed the Incas to grow large amounts of crops in the rugged terrain of the Andes, increasing the surface area of arable land. In addition, the terraces increased productivity by reducing soil erosion and allowing for the control of temperature and moisture levels, effectively allowing the farmers to create microclimates on each terrace to optimize growing conditions. The terraces are quite an impressive sight today with only grass, so one must imagine what they were like filled with crops and grazing llamas and alpacas.

In the center of the town was the palace of Túpac Yupanqui, who greatly expanded the empire’s realm during his time as king. However, when the Spanish took control of the area, they destroyed the palace and erected a colonial church over it, which is still standing today. The interior of the church is decorated with Christian works produced by Quechua artists like the painter Diego Quispe Tito; meanwhile, all that remains of the original temple is the stone wall in front of the church’s entrance.

Moray

The next stop is another agricultural site that shows the ingenuity of Inca farming.

The ruins of Moray consist of a series of wide circular terraces cut in the shape of a bowl, leading down nearly 500 feet (150 m) deep. At first, the place has the aspect of a giant amphitheater; in reality, though, it was an important site of agricultural production as well as experimentation.

The large difference in depth between the terraces, and thus their exposure to sunlight and wind, led to huge differences in temperature between them, up to 27℉ (15℃). In this way, terraces functioned like modern-day greenhouses for Inca planters, allowing them to experiment with a variety of growing conditions in order to optimize production for their large empire of several million inhabitants. The Moray ruins will make you marvel not only at the scale of Inca agriculture but also the shrewd resourcefulness of those who directed it.

Salt Mines of Maras

The highly impressive salineras of Maras, which are still in use today, actually predate the Inca civilization and were used by indigenous cultures even earlier.

The three thousand small ponds are cut into the side of the Qaqawiñay mountain and fed by a salt water stream from within the mountain; the water collects in these pools and promptly evaporates in the burning altiplano sun, leaving behind salt crystals. The crystals are then harvested (scraped) with a piece of wood and set aside in a basket for a few days to completely dry before being packaged and sent around the country or for export.

However, the Incas have their own origin story for the salt. According to legend, the creator god Viracocha sent his four children out to search for fertile lands upon which to found a great empire. Along the way, one of the siblings, Ayar Cachi, threw a stone against the side of a mountain with such tremendous force that it created a deep ravine. Fearful of his great strength, his siblings tricked him into entering a cave and locked him inside, excluding him from founding the empire. Ayar Cachi’s tears are thus the source of the salt water.

Ollantaytambo

Your last stop will be Ollantaytambo, a nicely maintained tourist town whose main attraction, besides a train station that takes you to Machu Picchu, is its stunning hillside archaeological site.

This area was conquered by the Incas in the mid-15th century and was promptly added to the personal estate of the emperor Pachacuti, who set about rebuilding the town in grand fashion as well as constructing terraces and an irrigation system for crops. A century later, the town served as one of the final bastions of Inca resistance to the Spanish conquest, as the emperor Manco Inca moved his capital here after the Spaniards took Cusco. In fact, it was on these very hillside terraces that the Inca warriors mounted a tremendous defense against the Spaniards, flooding the plain below them and driving back the Spanish cavalry. However, the victory would prove short-lived: the next year, Manco Inca moved what little was left of his empire deep into the forest at Vilcabamba, before they were wiped out altogether by the conquistadores a few decades later.

The archaeological site of Ollantaytambo is arguably the most impressive in the Sacred Valley. At the foot of the terraces is the original layout of the town, with digs revealing a central plaza, temples, elaborate baths, and ceremonial fountains. On the top of the steep terraces are the Templo del Sol, reduced to just six giant stones that formed its foundation, as well as a series of fortifications built by Manco Inca. Once you’ve made it to the top of the many staircases, look back and enjoy a sweeping view across the beautiful valley. In the distance, you will see other fortifications built into the side of the mountains for the Incas to keep watch over the entrance to their sacred valley.

The Sacred Valley makes for a can’t-miss stop on your way from Cusco to Machu Picchu. Click here for a guide to how to incorporate it into your trip.