The Costa Brava: Cataluña's 'Wild' Coast

Leave behind the hordes of tourists in Barcelona and head northeast to the Costa Brava, the ‘wild’ and wonderful coast of northern Cataluña.

The rugged, rocky coastline and the picturesque towns that dot it have inspired artists no less renowned than Picasso, Dalí, and Miró, and the area’s great beauty continues to attract many visitors today. Beyond its natural allure, the region also boasts proud culinary and viticultural traditions as well as a centuries-old practice of artisanal earthenware pottery. Read on for a guide to some of the towns you won’t want to miss.

What's in this article:

• Girona

• Besalú

• Figueres

• Cadaqués

• La Bisbal d’Empordà

• Begur

• Beaches

• Fine Dining

  
  

Girona

Though it isn’t located directly on the coast, the regional capital Girona makes for a perfect base from which to explore the Costa Brava. A buzzing university town, Girona is a beautiful city with a fabulously preserved medieval center, contained by the defensive walls known as the Força Vella that have stood since Roman times. Lose yourself in the winding alleys of El Call, the old Jewish quarter, before making your way to the river Onyar for a splendid view of the colorful houses that align it. If you find yourself in need of some refreshment, continue across the bridge and stop for a drink in the lively Plaça de la Independència.

Be sure not to miss the Catedral de Santa Maria, a fascinating mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture at the top of a steep stairway that will surely look familiar to Game of Thrones fans. The cathedral was originally the site of a Christian church that was converted into a mosque during the Muslim conquest of Iberia, before its subsequent conversion back to a church after the city was conquered by Charlemagne in 785.

Besalú

On your way north out of Girona, make a slight detour from the main road to stop at this quaint, finely preserved medieval town. An important regional center during the Middle Ages, the town is best known today for its spectacular Romanesque bridge crossing the river Fluvià, which dates to the 12th century. The bridge leads right into the heart of the old town, which you should explore at your leisure before continuing on your way.

Figueres

Figueres is famous as the birthplace of Salvador Dalí, and the surrealist artist left his mark on the town in the form of its main attraction, the Teatre-Museu Dalí. The theater and museum occupies an entire city block, and is built like a giant red castle adorned with giant eggs on top. Dalí lived in the museum for a period of five years, and his body is buried beneath the theater’s stage. The museum is built on the site of the town’s theater that Dalí frequented as a child, which was destroyed during the Spanish Civil War and then rebuilt decades later as a museum dedicated to the artist. Today, the museum has the world’s largest collection of Dalí’s works, many of which are from his personal collection.

Not far from the museum, you can also visit the artist’s childhood home, the Casa Natal Salvador Dalí.

Cadaqués

Cadaqués, which sits on the Cap de Creus peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean as the easternmost tip of the Iberian peninsula, is arguably the most beautiful town on the Costa Brava. A picturesque white fishing village, Cadaqués has been a source of refuge and inspiration for scores of legendary artists, among them Pablo Picasso, Joan Miró, Marcel Duchamp, René Magritte, John Cage, and even Walt Disney.

The town also played an important role in the life of Dalí, who visited here in his childhood and later lived in the neighboring town of Portlligat, where his home can be visited at the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. The town features prominently in several of the artist’s works, notably The Madonna of Port Lligat.

La Bisbal d’Empordà

For a taste of the Costa Brava’s pottery scene, head to this town, which has been producing ceramics for centuries. Pottery is an ancient tradition in these parts, with Iberian, Roman, and Moorish artisans crafting clay sourced from the Catalan hills for thousands of years. Check out Vilà Clara Ceramistes for an impressive collection of artisanal ceramics––hopefully you left some room in your suitcase!

Begur

Begur’s hilltop medieval castle offers some of the most breathtaking views of the Costa Brava. The 16th-century castle sits high above the coastline and offers sweeping panoramic views in every direction, giving you a breathtaking overview of the rugged shoreline before you and the pastoral farmland behind it.

Beaches

You can find beaches everywhere along the Costa Brava, but some stand out for their combination of soft sand and charming towns to go with them. Tamariu, Llafranc, and especially Calella de Palafrugell stand out in this regard, and any will make for a relaxing afternoon on the beach.

Fine Dining

Once home to the legendary restaurant El Bulli, routinely cited as one of the best and most innovative restaurants in the world, the Costa Brava continues to be a hot spot of fine dining, with numerous establishments of the utmost quality to choose from. While the three Michelin star El Celler de Can Roca in Girona will top most lists, I can speak to the fabulous dining experiences at Restaurant Els Tinars and Es Portal Restaurant.

Though I give the upper hand for food to Els Tinars, the setting of Es Portal can’t be beat, in a 16th century farmhouse with expansive gardens and farmland around it. The farmhouse is on the outskirts of Pals, a charming medieval town that you should be sure to stroll through after you eat.