Historic Towns of Minas Gerais
- Will Gerson
- Feb 18
- 5 min read
Background
Though the initial colonization of Brazil was centered around the production of sugarcane in the northeast, the focal point soon shifted to the rugged interior of Minas Gerais with the discovery of gold there in the 1690s. The ensuing gold rush saw hundreds of thousands of Portuguese colonists flock to the region hoping to strike it rich; within a couple of decades, more than half of Brazil’s population was living in the southeast, which remains the economic center of the country today. In addition, hundreds of thousands of enslaved Africans were brought to toil away in the mines, extracting several tons of gold each year, which brought enormous wealth to the Portuguese Empire as well as to the towns around the mines.
The mining towns were connected by the Estrada Real (royal road), a 1,000-mile (1,600km) road that wound through the mountains to the south on its way to Paraty, where the riches were loaded onto ships and sent back across the Atlantic to the metropole. The original road was a rough-and-tumble journey; slaves traveled entirely on foot, while the gold and diamonds were transported by mule trains known as tropas. Today, the road has been replaced by modern paving, but you can still follow in the footsteps of the tropas, exploring the various towns that are veritable gems of colonial architecture. The Estrada Real through the gold towns of Minas makes for one of Brazil’s best road trips.
Which Towns to Visit
Ouro Preto
Background
The epicenter of the gold rush was Ouro Preto, known initially as Vila Rica (rich town). The first gold found by the bandeirantes (Portuguese settlers) was in a stream in this region, which sparked the gold rush that saw a massive influx of Portuguese colonists and enslaved Africans descend on the town. By the middle of the 18th century, Vila Rica had become one of the largest cities in Latin America, with its population of 80,000 more than double that of New York. The city’s riches were poured into its fantastic Baroque cityscape, where churches, public buildings, and private residences lined the winding roads traversing the hilly terrain.
Ouro Preto was more than just a mining town; it also became a cultural center that attracted painters, composers, poets, and architects from across Brazil and even from Portugal. One of the most famous among these artists was Aleijadinho, a sculptor and architect who designed many of the magnificent churches you will see along your way. In addition, Ouro Preto was the site of the Inconfidência Mineira, an influential albeit unsuccessful revolutionary movement against the Portuguese led by national hero Tiradentes, who was inspired by the American Revolution as well as by Enlightenment ideas brought from Europe. Today, the town is home to a large university where the students live in houses called repúblicas that are roughly analogous to fraternities in the US; this residential system is unique in Brazil, with its origins tracing back to the University of Coimbra in Portugal, where many of the Brazilian elite were educated during colonial times.
The end of the gold rush and the transfer of the state capital to Belo Horizonte saw Ouro Preto lose its significance, and it lived a relatively isolated existence in the mountains for the whole of the 20th century, which allowed for the remarkable preservation of the historic center that you see today. As you wander the quiet, hilly, cobblestone streets and take in the splendid tranquility of the town, it can be difficult to imagine what life was like here when Ouro Preto was a booming population center at the height of the gold rush. But the monuments of those days, three centuries later, are still here to enjoy.
What to See in Ouro Preto
Ouro Preto is home to a number of impressive Baroque churches, such as the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Santuário Nossa Senhora de Conceição, Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Mercês e Perdões, and Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Pilar, whose altars are adorned with gold from local mines.
But the most spectacular of the bunch is no doubt the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, considered one of the finest structures anywhere in the Portuguese world. The church is Aleijadinho’s masterpiece, with its marvelous twin circular bell towers and its intricate Rococo facade serving as a testament to his skill as both architect and sculptor.
Mariana
Just a half-hour drive east of Ouro Preto is Mariana, which is in fact the oldest town in Minas. Though it receives far fewer tourists than its neighbor, it has a similar charm, with a well-preserved historic district centered around the lovely Praça Gomes Freire. The town also has its share of colonial churches, notably the twin Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo and Igreja de São Francisco de Assis.
Tiradentes
Tiradentes is the most quaint of the towns along the gold circuit, and it, along with Ouro Preto, makes for a great place to stay during your road trip.
The beautifully preserved town is filled with charming pousadas (bed and breakfasts), boutique shops, and gourmet restaurants where you can try traditional dishes from Minas cuisine like feijão tropeiro, a hearty meat and bean dish prepared by the tropeiros who drove the mule trains across the mountains to transport the gold from the mines to the coast.
Take plenty of time to stroll the enchanting streets, winding up at the Igreja Matriz de Santo Antônio, which sits on a slight hill with a sweeping view of the town below and the valley beyond it.
São João del-Rei
A half-hour drive east of Tiradentes is São João del-Rei, yet another town boasting a well-preserved historic center. Walk down Rua Getúlio Vargas to see the Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Pilar and the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo before turning up the hill to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Mercês. This last church stands in front of the Largo do Pelourinho, whose idyllic appearance belies its dark origins: the small monument in the center is the pillory (pelourinho), where slaves were publicly whipped as punishment for alleged transgressions.
Congonhas
The main attraction here is the Santuário do Bom Jesus do Matosinhos, perched high on a hill above the town. The basilica’s highlight is Aleijadinho’s collection of evocative, soapstone statues of Old Testament prophets, which adorn the staircase leading up to the church. The church itself is a fine example of rococo style both in its interior as well as its facade. Along the hill leading down from the church towards the town are six small, domed chapels representing the Stations of the Cross, each with Aleijadinho’s highly expressive polychrome wood sculptures depicting different scenes from the Passion of Christ.
