Córdoba

Known popularly as la sartén de España (the frying pan of Spain) due to its searingly hot summer temperatures––the average high in late summer is 99℉ (37℃)––Córdoba has had a fascinating history over the course of two millennia.

Initially a Roman city that was later taken by the Visigoths, Córdoba’s history begins in earnest with the Muslim conquest of Iberia in the early 8th century. The ensuing Umayyad dynasty chose Córdoba to be the capital of their new kingdom, Al-Andalus, which occupied nearly all of the Iberian Peninsula. Córdoba flourished under Muslim rule, becoming one of the world’s foremost centers of education and scholarship as well as Europe’s largest and arguably most cultured city, a melting pot with a population of 100,000 comprised of Arabs, Berbers, Iberians, and Jews.

Home to Muslim polymath Averroes and Jewish philosopher Maimonides, the caliph’s court attracted scholars from far and wide and produced significant advances in science, medicine, philosophy, poetry, and art. One of the city’s many Islamic libraries held an estimated 400,000 volumes, and Córdoba’s book market was one of the most preeminent of its era, also functioning as a center for copying and publishing. In addition, the city’s artisans were highly regarded throughout Europe and the East for their luxury goods of textiles, jewelry, leather, weapons, and carved ivory. But the Christian reconquista in 1236 brought about a marked cultural and economic decline; Córdoba would soon be reduced to a quiet city of churches, monasteries, and houses of aristocrats.

However, plenty of testaments to the city’s golden age exist to this day. The most notable is certainly the grand Mosque-Cathedral, a breathtaking structure consisting of a cathedral built on top of the city’s great mosque following the Christian conquest. Córdoba has preserved much of its Moorish character, with its typical narrow winding streets in the historic center and the Judería (Jewish quarter), and a walk through its streets can feel like a trip back centuries into Spain’s past.

Must-See Attractions

Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba

Córdoba’s main attraction is without a doubt the Mosque-Cathedral, a simply incredible work of architecture. The Great Mosque of Córdoba was built in 785 by order of Abd Al-Rahman I, founder of the Islamic Emirate of Córdoba, and it underwent several expansions over the following centuries to become one of the largest mosques of its age, second only to the Holy Mosque of Mecca.

When the city was captured by Fernando III in 1236, the new Christian rulers decided to preserve the mosque due to its exceptional beauty and began using it for Catholic religious services rather than destroying it and erecting a cathedral in its place. The structure remained relatively unchanged until a major redevelopment in the 16th century that consisted of inserting a Renaissance cathedral nave and transept into the middle of the building, along with an accompanying elliptical dome and barrel vault ceiling constructed above it. In addition, the minaret was converted into a bell tower.

Architecturally, the mosque represents a unique combination of both Eastern and Western artistic sensibilities, namely in its hundreds of double arches made of alternating red brick and white limestone, which was inspired by Roman and Visigoth techniques. Hugely influential on Western Islamic art since its construction, the mosque would also go on to greatly influence the Moorish Revival of the 19th century, one of modern Spain’s principal architectural styles. Today, the unique structure serves as a reminder of the mix of Moorish and Catholic elements that shape Spain’s contemporary culture.

Roman Bridge

Directly in front of the Mosque-Cathedral lies Córdoba’s other most famous monument, the Roman bridge that stretches across the Guadalquivir. Originally built in the 1st century BC, most of the bridge’s current appearance comes from a reconstruction by the Arabs in the 8th century. A look back across the bridge towards the Mosque-Cathedral makes for a stunning view.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

The medieval alcázar (from the Arabic word for castle or palace) of Córdoba was one of the primary residences of Fernando and Isabel, the Catholic monarchs who founded modern Spain by uniting the kingdoms of Castilla and Aragón, as well as regaining control of the Iberian peninsula with the capture of Granada in 1492. The fortress was built in 1328 on the site of the old Umayyad alcázar, which was also the site of the governor’s residence and customs house in Roman times. The palace’s most attractive feature is certainly its elaborate gardens and airy courtyards, which pay homage to the Moorish architecture that came before it.

Calleja de las Flores

Close to the Mosque-Cathedral you will find the so-called Alley of the Flowers, considered one of the most beautiful streets in all of Spain. Typical Andalusian houses line this narrow alleyway, while the flower-filled balconies frame an excellent view of the cathedral’s bell tower. Certainly among the most photogenic spots in Córdoba.