Catania and Eastern Sicily

Situated at the foot of the imposing Mount Etna is Catania, Sicily’s second city. Though not quite as grand as Palermo, the city’s history is no less important; rather, it has fallen victim to multiple natural disasters over the centuries, namely catastrophic earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Even so, Catania boasts an attractive historic center, rebuilt in the late Baroque period at the end of the 17th century, after the last great earthquake. Its fine architecture, vibrant dining scene, and sound transportation links make it a great spot from which to explore the eastern coast of the island.

Points of Interest

Via Etnea

The pedestrian-only portion of Via Etnea runs through the heart of the historic center and makes for a great stroll into town. Start at the top of the street, at the base of the lovely gardens of the Villa Bellini, and make your way down towards the Piazza del Duomo. If you find yourself in need of some sustenance, stop at Pasticceria Savia, arguably the city’s finest pastry shop.

This is an excellent place to try some world-famous cannoli, which in Catania are served dusted with finely chopped pistachios, or cassata, a traditional sponge cake also made with ricotta. On a hot day, you may want to opt for a granita, a refreshing dessert that can be seen as a forefather of both sorbet and Italian ice.

Via Etnea will lead you past beautiful Baroque architecture on both sides, as well as an excavated Roman Theater. At the end of the pleasant walk, you are in the city’s main square, the Piazza del Duomo, facing the impressive Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata.

Pescheria di Catania

Like in other towns and cities across the island, one of the stars of the show in Catania is its fish market, La Pescheria. The bustling street market is filled to the brim with the fruits of Sicily’s shores as well as the products of its picturesque farmland; locals come for the fresh seafood and produce, while tourists come to behold the sights and smells. The market is open from 7 in the morning to 2 in the afternoon Monday through Saturday, and a trip through its winding, crowded streets is a uniquely Sicilian experience.

Syracuse

About an hour down the coast from Catania, easily accessible by train, is the ancient city of Syracuse. Originally a small settlement founded by the Greek Corinthians, Syracuse grew to become a powerful city-state in the ancient Mediterranean world, lauded by the Roman statesman Cicero as the “greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of them all.”

The historic center of the city is concentrated on the small island of Ortygia, separated by just a small channel from the rest of the town. Its geographic circumstances meant that Ortygia was a sort of natural fortress, easily developed into the core of the city complete with defensive walls and a small harbor. In fact, in the 5th century BC, Syracuse’s population was as large as that of Athens.

Shortly after crossing the bridge onto the island, you will find yourself face to face with the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, one of Syracuse’s most important sites. The temple, known to the Greeks as the Apollonion, is a perfect microcosm of the patchwork history of Sicily: originally a temple to the Olympian god, the site was closed during the persecution of pagans by the Roman emperor Constantine and converted into a Byzantine church, before its later conversion to a mosque during the age of the Emirate of Sicily. After the Normans defeated the Muslim Saracens, they turned the mosque back into a church, which later formed part of a military complex housing Spanish troops in the 16th century.

Further into the center of the town is the Duomo, which was originally a Greek temple to Athena dating from the 5th century BC, as well. Similar to the Apollonion, the Temple of Athena was converted to a church with the dawn of Christianity across the Roman Empire, then to a mosque, and then back to a church, only to be destroyed in the great earthquake of 1693, after which it was subsequently rebuilt in the style you see today. As you make your way out towards the tip of the island, you will also pass the Fountain of Arethusa, where in Greek mythology the nymph Arethusa sprang up after escaping her undersea home, leaving behind a freshwater spring. Arethusa is a patron symbol of Syracuse, and her fountain is an important literary symbol that appears in numerous Romanticist poems as well as Moby-Dick. Finally, at the very tip of the island, is the Castello Maniace, a 13th century castle and citadel from which the Sicilians successfully defended their kingdom from a series of would-be invaders over the years.

If you’re in need of a bite to eat on your way into town, be sure to stop for a great gourmet sandwich at Caseificio Borderi or Fratelli Burgio; both are often crowded and are of equal quality, so you can pick whichever has the shorter line.