A Local's Guide to Florence

Florence is one of the most visited cities in Europe, and for good reason: this city that was the beating heart of the Italian Renaissance is filled with beauty everywhere you look. Its main sights are well-known the world over, from its iconic Duomo to the picturesque Ponte Vecchio to the breathtaking grace of Michelangelo’s David.

But Florence has much more to offer than just the well-trodden tourist itinerary. Here is a local's guide to Florence to help you explore the city from a more local perspective, visiting places where you can engage with the living and breathing culture of the city.

Scuola del Cuoio

Florence has a long history of excellent craftsmanship in leather goods, dating back to before the Renaissance. The city’s tanneries have traditionally been located in the neighborhood of Santa Croce, making use of the plentiful water from the Arno river nearby. Scuola del Cuoio, located in an old monastery behind the Basilica di Santa Croce, carries on the classic traditions of Florentine leather making into the modern day. Founded after the Second World War to give practical training to orphans whose parents were killed in the war, Scuola del Cuoio is one of the finest places for leather products in the city. The workshops and gardens are beautiful in and of themselves, to say nothing of the quality of the leather products.

After your shopping trip, be sure to check out the historic basilica, which holds the tombs of numerous notable Florentines such as Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli.

Santa Croce

Santa Croce remains one of Florence’s most traditional neighborhoods, conveniently located but removed from the tourist crush of the center. For a more local experience, head to the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio and have lunch at the classic Trattoria da Rocco.

The area around the market is also bustling and is a popular nightlife spot, particularly along the pedestrian streets Borgo la Croce and Via dell’Ortone. Go for a glass of wine at Enoteca alla Sosta dei Papi, either inside the charming bar or in a plastic cup out on the street with the lively crowd.

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

The origins of the world’s oldest pharmacy lie with the monks of the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, who during the 13th century started to experiment with the flowers and herbs they grew in the monastery’s garden to create elixirs, balms, and other herbal medicines to treat themselves as well as sick patients who came to the monastery’s infirmary. Over the following  couple of centuries, the healing creations grew so popular that the monks decided to begin selling them to the public.

Eight hundred years later, the operation is still going strong. Housed in the old Cappella di San Nicolò, donated to the monks by a wealthy 13th-century merchant who was cured from his ailments at the monastery’s infirmary, the Officina feels more like a museum than a shop, with beautiful rooms filled with intriguing ornaments. The most famous products include soaps, creams, and fragrances, specifically the perfume known as Acqua della Regina that was created for Catherine de’ Medici, Florentine noblewoman and queen of France, who was one of the pharmacy’s chief patrons.

Trattoria Sostanza

This Florentine classic has been open since 1869 and is a local favorite for its butter chicken as well as its steak. Florence is famous for its beef (and leather) produced by the Chianina breed of cattle, which have grazed in the picturesque Tuscan countryside for thousands of years. The cut of choice is the bistecca alla fiorentina, a huge T-bone steak prepared over hot coals. Tuck into one in this lively trattoria for a meal you won’t forget.

You may have to wait for a table as the restaurant usually has two seating times for dinner. If so, go for a pre-dinner drink at The Arts Inn up the street for nice cocktails in a cool atmosphere.

Ristorante del Fagioli

This is another great place to try traditional Tuscan cuisine. The steak is a standout, but so is everything on the menu; be sure to try some of the namesake fagioli (beans). The house red is a fantastic wine for great value.